F.A.Q

Huskies are bigger, working dogs who need lots of exercise and mental stimulation to prevent destructive behaviour. They are beautiful dogs will draw people in but are high maintenance and not everyone is prepared for that.
Pomeranians are small, companion dogs. They are smaller, easier to manage yet their fur is high maintenance. Thousands of years ago, Pomeranians were larger in size and also sled dogs. After selective breeding Pomeranians were bred to be smaller, the ones we see today are a result of that.
Crossing these two breeds is done through artificial insemination. The result is a small to medium sized dog, easier to manage than the larger husky and an easier coat to groom.  Sometimes Pomskies can be more Husky in traits or more Pomeranian. Pomskies are fantastic dogs in many ways. Good breeders match their puppies to their forever homes as well as proving a great insight to their puppies temperament. Good breeders will only breed from Huskies, Pomeranians and Pomskies that have good quality traits and temperaments. Imagine living with a great looking dog but their temperament makes life hard... that is why I want to match owners and puppies.

There are pros and cons to every dog breed. Providing information about Pomskies will help to decide whether a Pomsky is right for you. If you would like to get in touch to discuss, feel free to do so. No question is too small.

Pros
My favourite thing about Pomskies is that they want to be a part of the family and interact with you. They are happy dogs that bring joy to families. Training them is highly rewarding. They like to be active and make good running partners when they are fully mature. They enjoy puzzle games for mental enrichment. They love their humans and are very loyal to them.

Cons
Their high level of intelligence means they know when they can get away with something. If they want something out of reach, they may figure out how to get it. Some can be vocal. Some need more exercise and/or mental stimulation than others to prevent boredom based behaviour problems. Socialisation classes may be necessary to help them greet other dogs and humans politely. They shed throughout the year and more so twice a year. Fluffier coats need to be groomed more regularly to prevent matts. Their stubbornness may be frustrating. Training is always an ongoing process.

Pomskies do shed small amounts throughout the year but will shed heavily twice a year. They will “blow” their coats to get rid of the winter coat so they can cool down in summer and towards the end of summer to get rid of the thinner coat to make way for the warmer, thicker winter coat.
We use a mikki rake and slicker brush to keep on top of grooming. The rake really helps to remove dead undercoat.
People are always very surprised to hear we rarely bath our Pomskies. Their coat has natural oils to waterproof themselves and a good towel dry and brush can remove most dirt. 

We strongly believe raw food is the best diet. We feed complete meals in the ratio 80:10:10 (protein:offal:bone)
Raw food is a natural diet without any fillers and unidentified nasties found in dry food. The benefits include: smaller, firmer stools with little odour, shiny coat and healthy skin, healthier teeth and gums, stable energy and less hyperactivity. Fed correctly with the correct weights and variety of proteins (5+) then a Pomsky will thrive. Many vets are against a raw diet as they see issues where it hasn’t been fed correctly (stuck bones, too much calcium in diet, incorrect ratios leading to health issues). There are holistic vets who are pro raw and are hugely beneficial to dog owners. 
Whilst we prefer raw diet, we are aware it doesn't suit every family. From cost to freezer space, reasons will vary. In those cases, we can only recommend premium grain free dog foods such as Eden, Orijen and Millie's Wolfheart dog food.

I strongly recommend natural treats and chews. I am happy to recommend suppliers. I also make my own training treats as well as dog safe cakes (grain free).
Treats/chews include:

• dehydrated chicken breast/duck breast/liver/heart
• dried beef lung, scalp, noses, tail tips, tripe, ears
• dried camel skin (long lasting chews)
• chicken feet
• calf and cows hooves (you can fill in the empty ones for a longer treat)
• yak chews
• pig snouts
• duck necks, turkey necks
• rabbit ears (hairy ones are great natural dewormers)
• cows and rams horns
• moonbones
• lambs legs and deer leg
• antlers (split antlers are easier for young dogs)
• buffalo horns (once adult teeth are settled in)
• raw, meaty bones (consider calcium content and feed boneless minces as well)

There are many more that you will find. I like to feed a good variety and offer a fair few for the dogs to choose from (this can be interesting to see which they prefer).
Feeding new natural chews can trigger an upset tummy. This is normal to start with as it is completely new to their system and can be too rich. The pork ones can be high in fats which trigger gut inflammation sometimes. You can feed smaller amounts and build it up where possible. This gives the body time to adjust. There may be the odd case where the dog just has a sensitivity to a particular protein and/or treat. 

They do get along with other dogs and enjoy playing and socialising with them.  They can get along with cats but owners need to be mindful of the prey drive. Take time introducing them from scent before physically letting them meet and then building it up. Puppies are likely to be easier to familiarise themselves with cats.
Prey drive does vary in Pomskies but is noticeably less than in huskies.
Desensitisation training and lots of patience may need to be done before allowing Pomskies to be with cats/small animals.

The F numbers relate to the generation of the pomsky.
F1= Husky mum with Pomeranian father
F2= F1 pomsky mum with F1 pomsky dad
F3= F2 pomsky mum with F2 pomsky dad
F1b= F1 backcrossed with a husky or pomeranian
The generation of the pomsky does not indicate size. Size of the pomsky is down to the genetics and can vary even in the same litter.

Bi-eyed means 2 different coloured eyes.
Parti eyed means that 1 eye can have 2 or more colours inside.

They are small to medium sized dogs. 
Generally they will be approx 10 to 15 inches from the floor to the shoulder and weigh approx 5kg to 16kg.
The adult weights of our puppies will be included on here when they mature.

Approx 12 to 15 years. This is based on the average lifespan on the parent breeds, husky and pomeranian.
Though pomskies haven’t been around long enough to give a definite answer.

Pomskies have not been around long enough to give a detailed list but common issues that have been noted are hip dysplasia, luxating patella, and dental issues.
This list will be updated accordingly.

Generally happy, loyal, playful, loving and active dogs. They are easy to train but their high level of intelligence means you always have to be consistent. 
Sometimes a pomsky may have more husky traits and sometimes more pomeranian traits. Some may be more vocal, more likely to dig, become destructive and be stubborn.
Our early socialisation with the puppies will prepare puppies with the life skills they will need to thrive when they leave us. We will be fully honest on our observations with the puppies and provide a good insight to the puppies' temperament.

I want anyone who considers me as their breeder to be reassured that they are getting a puppy from someone who loves their dogs and puppies like family members. My heart is involved and they really are like my children but of the canine variety. The decision to breed did not happen overnight. It was a decision based on many factors and well considered before health tests. I want to be the best dog owner for my dogs and then I want to be the best breeder that I can possibly be. I will do anything to ensure my dogs and puppies live a long and happy life.

When I discovered the OFQUAL Level 3 course in Dog Breeding, Litter Socialisation and Welfare, I was ecstatic. It was absolutely perfect, reading the course content, I thought this course was made for me. Making the right decisions by my potential parent dogs, then supporting them through pregnancy, whelping and then doing the socialisation for my puppies is what I want. Knowing I can prepare puppies for what they will encounter in the future is a powerful feeling. I would see it as a failure on my part if I didn't do anything in the many areas of socialisation. From my experience with my dogs and hearing other owners experiences with their Pomskies means that I can focus on certain areas where Pomskies may struggle. Separation anxiety, recall, calmly waiting for food.. I can start these while puppies are young, in their critical socialisation phase and make a difference to their future. 

By choosing me as your breeder means a lot. There has to be trust both ways. You have to trust me in what I have said and in the way I have raised my puppies and I have to trust that you are fully honest with me, will do your best by your Pomsky puppy and provide them with your love and support.

I aim to match puppies to their forever families. Puppies are born with their own temperament and cannot be made to match families, families have to match them. This is the biggest decision I can make for the puppies and I need to get it right. In by doing so, families will be able to bond better with their puppy, the puppy will be happier and get what they need. Some puppies may be suitable for a variety of family situations and some may need certain homes. The more energetic puppies will need an active home. Some puppies may benefit from families with experience of Pomskies, Huskies or stubborn breeds. The quiet, shy puppies may need a less busy household and perhaps and older, calm and confident dog.
I will always be fully honest and discuss my reasons. I will always be there to support families and our puppies. If any needed to be rehomed, then I want to be involved (as per my contract). This is to protect my puppies and ensure none end up in rehoming centres.

I would also like puppy owners to keep in touch. I would love to plan playdates, meet up, reunite siblings with their parents. Imagine their birthday parties! One of the other reasons to keep in touch is to ensure I am consistently producing quality Pomsky puppies. This doesn't just mean health, but also conformation and temperaments. I do have a lot of confidence but I still want to keep updated records. I would also like puppy owners to keep in touch about weights. I want to keep my records up to date so I see the pattern of birth weights, the pairings and what they produce. 

All puppies will leave on a spay/neuter contract.

If breeding rights is something owners are wanting , then this needs to be discussed. Breeding dogs isn't easy. There is so much effort, time, research, patience and money that needs to be involved.

I need to protect my puppies in every way possible. I cannot let anyone just breed from them as many issues can arise. I may allow it further down the line but only IF I can see the effort that will be put in (courses, health tests, license, the reasons behind breeding).

Yes, absolutely! I will welcome this and encourage it. For safety reasons, meeting at an enclosed field would be better.
Potential owners can see the parents having fun, get to know them, learn what to expect and I will happily talk for as long as owners want. I love talking about our dogs and as I spend all my time with them, I know them very well. 

I am starting a waiting list for litters due to interest in future litters.

I do not expect any deposits until potential owners view puppies when they are around 4 weeks of age. We can discuss deposit etc at viewing.

Please keep in mind puppies will be matched to potential families. People are happy to pass on a litter and go elsewhere (I know it is hard to wait for a puppy but please go to reputable breeders. It makes a huge difference).

I will be including a lot in the starter packs as I want to be able to make the transition as smooth as possible.
Items include:

• Paperwork (contracts, care sheets, information on puppies so far, copies of parents health tests, vaccination car, my contact details, insurance details for 5 weeks free insurance, food guidelines and recipes for cakes and biscuits)
• blanket smelling of mum and siblings as well as a decent sized vet bed offcut also smelling of mum and siblings
• minimum of 7 days worth of raw food
• new and old toys
• poo bags
• natural chews and treats
• treat ball
• small section of Astroturf from their litter tray
• and many more items... 

If I let potential owners choose their own puppy, there is strong chance I am setting that puppy up to fail. I will explain as much as I can.

Prior to my course, I would not have had the confidence to tell people that a particular puppy would not fit their family. I would have apologised because I totally understand why. You have a certain idea of what you want on looks and want that small version of a husky. 
Choosing based on looks is not the best way to go about it... Having the choice based on temperaments is THE way to go because you have to live with that puppy everyday for the rest of its life. One analogy that I heard that will always stick with me is this.. imagine you are looking on a dating website, see the profile picture and think ooh yeah, I like them. You meet them, get to know them, live with them.. and then all these annoying habits seem to be there and they get more and more annoying. You will resent your choice.

If I allowed an energetic puppy (more husky traits) go to a family that wasn't particularly active then there is a good chance it would not work out. I would be heartbroken for that puppy. They got used to their new family, loved them and now the family do not like them, they do not understand why.

A shy, quiet puppy going to a busy household would be a fail. Training and socialisation can help to an extent but we cannot change the puppy. They are born with their temperament. They are all individuals.

I want to be as successful as possible matching puppies to their future homes. I need to get it right as this is a massive decision from me.
Owners and families will be happier because they can bond easier with their puppy. I will be there supporting owners as well.

I will do my very best in preparing the puppies for life via socialisation whilst they are with me and I will only breed from parents who have the traits and temperaments that are ideal. (An anxious mother would have anxious puppies and Ido not want that.)

Despite doing this, we need to remember there are 2 breeds in this puppy. Genes are turned on and off via epigenetics and the puppies can inherit traits from many generations ago.

I will always be honest with owners and explain my decisions. 

The puppy pod is a short course and a facebook community group to help new puppy owners. Prior to getting your new puppy, you can start the course (£50) and get prepared for your new arrival. As well as proving lots of advice, you can get into the mindset that will set you, your family and your new puppy off to the right start. “The Puppy Pod will set you up for success!”
You will get training to the right start- from settling your puppy at night, crate training, puppy biting, separation anxiety, toilet training and so much more. The facebook group has an experienced dog trainer who helps with advice, live Q's and A's and provides the best tips to set you up for success. The other people in the group are in the same situation and will be happy to share their tips and experiences. 
Once you have paid for the course, you have access to the learning materials for life.
The course is from Pupstarts Breeders (where I have completed my Level 3 course). I highly recommend the courses as all the learning material is in small, easily digestible chunks and I am more than happy to discuss my experiences.

Here is my referral link:
https://pupstartsbreeders.thinkific.com/courses/puppypod?ref=4c1c2c